Recalls from Ol’ Roy because it contained euthanasia drugs, pet owners reporting maggots in bags of kibble, dogs getting sick from pathogens found in foods made at sub-par factories – these are just a few of the terrifying examples of what can go wrong in the pet food industry (and at least one is happening right now).
As a pet parent, it’s your duty to ensure your dog’s health status by feeding him a healthy diet every single day. This means shopping for food consciously and being aware of what to avoid and what to prefer, both in safety and nutritional values. But you can’t always rely on what pet companies claim; instead, you need to develop a working knowledge of what’s in these foods in the first place.
From reading labels to avoiding questionable ingredients, these tips will help you get to know the pet food industry and make the right decision every time.
AAFCO Stamp of Approval
The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is an voluntary membership organization that oversees food quality for the entire industry. Although pet food companies aren’t required to become members, most higher-end brands do because it provides consumers with proof of quality.
When buying any dog food – wet, dry, or fresh – you should check the package for the AAFCO stamp and statement of quality. In the case of main diet foods, this logo indicates that the food in question has been tested and is nutritionally “complete and balanced.” For treats and extras, the AAFCO label certifies their suitability as “supplemental or intermittent use” foods.
AAFCO regulates several dog food factors, including labeling transparency, ingredients, and FDA, state, and national licensing demands. If you see their label, you can trust that the food in question is at least safe for your dog. Some AAFCO-labeled foods may be better or worse than others depending on what they contain. You still need to read the label to be sure it’s the right choice.
Dog Food Label Literacy
Label literacy is a serious issue in the United States, and not just within the pet food industry. Both human and pet food labels can be notoriously confusing and complicated despite the FDA’s strict pet food labeling guidelines. If you’ve ever looked at the label only to feel overwhelmed by long chemical names or exactly what “by-product meal” means, this section is for you.
First, let’s talk about order of ingredients. On all pet foods, ingredients must be listed by weight. That means the first ingredient you see on the list is also the heaviest ingredient in the food. The ingredients listed at the end are the lightest and usually the lowest in volume throughout the food.
Naturally, the first ingredient listed in your dog’s food is also usually present in the highest quantity throughout the food. But be cautious of assuming this is the case across the board; some ingredients (like water) lack any real nutrition, but are naturally heavy, and will win out that coveted top spot. Similarly, listing a vital nutrient at the very end may be a token attempt to make the food appear healthy rather than valid supplementation.
The Skinny on By-Products
By-products and meat meals get a bit of a bad rap. These are the products listed at the start of most kibbles and dog foods. They’re usually called “chicken meal” “fish meal” “poultry by-product meal” and “beef by-product” or some other similar arrangement of words.
There’s a common misconception that meat meals and by-products are inherently bad – that they contain bones and factory floor sweepings. This represents a misconception about the pet industry and canine nutrition. Most “by-products” come from organ meats, and yes, ground-up bones, but these aren’t inherently bad for your dog. Organs are incredibly rich in nutritious elements like iron, protein, and calcium, as are bones; that’s why wild dogs generally eat the entire animal after they hunt.
As for meat “meals,” they’re just meats with most of the water extracted. Without extracting the water, it would be impossible to make kibble to begin with – most meats would rot or expire within just a few short weeks. Extracting the water and producing a “meal” retains most of the nutrition while extending your pet food’s lifespan.
Life Stage Matters
Let’s talk about life stage next – no, not where your puppy is right now, but how life stage relates to dog foods specifically. Most foods specify a life stage or indicate that the food is appropriate for all ages. Ideally, it’s best to match the life stage to your pup’s current life stage, changing with him as he grows.
For example, if you have a puppy under six months of age, you should ideally feed a high-quality puppy chow. If you have a senior dog who’s a bit of a couch potato, a food for seniors will supplement him with critical nutrients and slightly lower fat and calorie content to help him maintain a healthy weight. There are foods for every life stage.
As for “suitable for all life stages” foods, these are fine to use as a base meal. In most situations, they’re more than enough for the average dog, but they may be slightly unsuitable in the event that your dog has more specific needs. Nursing mothers and young pups, for example, need higher levels of protein and fats to stay healthy than the average adult dog. Similarly, sporting dogs may need a higher calorie food and may lack nutrition if given lower-calorie senior dog chows.
Ultimately, your vet is the best resource if you aren’t sure. Ask them for recommendations on food choices or food suitability. Always seek your vet’s advice before changing up your pet’s food.
Human & Raw Food Diets
Should your dog have human food? Should he eat a raw food diet? Well, the answer to both of these questions depends on a long list of factors.
Feeding raw is possible, but it’s very, very difficult and requires almost constant veterinary oversight to address nutritional deficiencies. It’s time-consuming, expensive, and even when done right, may still not be enough for some pups. For this reason, most vets don’t recommend feeding raw unless your dog has a condition that specifically demands the special diet.
Regarding human food, there are some options (like plain cooked meats, white or brown rice, carrots, apples, oatmeal, and green beans) that are just fine. But there are other options (like raisins, grapes, garlic, and chocolate) that can be downright deadly in the wrong amounts. As a general rough guideline, don’t feed your dog anything with spices, heavy seasonings, sauces, or gravies; these can result in an upset tummy or even canine pancreatitis. Stick with plain, bland whole-food items and always check whether they’re toxic for dogs first.
Now, all of that said…there are a few human foods that may benefit dogs in specific ways. Plain probiotic yogurt helps our dogs the same way it helps us, balancing gut flora. Plain canned pumpkin dog (NOT pie filling) may resolve diarrhea or constipation. And apple slices (no seeds) are particularly useful for cleaning your dog’s teeth!
Food Additives
Ever glance at the nutritional information listed on the back of your dog’s favorite kibble? Short of being a scientist, it can seem a bit like you’re reading Greek thanks to all the lengthy chemical names. Confusion around exactly what those chemical names mean, unfortunately, frequently leads pet owners to make potentially bad choices about dog food.
Most people either shy away from foods unnecessarily, assuming them to be dangerous simply because of the scary chemicals on the list, while others simply ignore the information altogether. This all-or-nothing approach certainly won’t give you the information you need to make healthy decisions about canine nutrition.
There’s no doubt about it: some substances really and truly are bad for your dog. But the vast majority of scary-sounding chemical names listed on the bag amount to little more than scientific names for specific vitamins, minerals, and fats.
In the same way that dihydrogen monoxide can both hydrate and kill you in varying amounts (hint: it’s water), context is important. Use the information in this short and helpful guide to make an informed choice about your pup’s food.
Calcium Carbonate
Comprised entirely of calcium, a mineral that’s beneficial for your pup in the first place, calcium carbonate is derived most frequently from bone meal. And while it may not seem particularly suitable to feed your dog bones, in the wild, he would spend a significant amount of time gnawing on them.
In dog food, calcium carbonate serves as both an anti-caking agent and a calcium supplement. The first is important for form, while the second is vital for your dog’s overall health, especially in puppyhood. Like human children, your dog requires calcium for strong, healthy bones and good cardiovascular health.
Chondroitin
Chondroitin occurs naturally in all meats and is most frequently listed on labels in sulphate form (chondroitin sulphate). Although it isn’t recognized as a required nutritional value for dogs by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles, there is at least some evidence to show that foods with high levels of chondroitin may reduce inflammation and even ward off arthritis. This is especially true if your dog food also contains glucosamine.
Most chondroitin is sourced from animal cartilage. In the wild, dogs and wolves ingest this regularly with every carcass they eat. But your pup isn’t hunting his own food (hopefully, anyway), so dog food makers add chondroitin to make up for the lack of cartilage present in his food.
Fructo-Oligo-Saccharide
Fructo-Oligo-Saccharide (FOS) may be less common than other supplements, but this up and coming ingredient is quickly gaining popularity. It’s an essential element that adds flavor to your dog’s food and treats while also having slight demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties.
Sourced from fruits and vegetables like chicory root and wheat, this simple sugar is best known for its ability to boost digestion. That’s probably why you’ll find it added to many probiotic digestion supplements.
When added to dog food, FOS helps your pup’s gastrointestinal tract process everything else he eats at the same time. The better he absorbs nutrients, the better the chances that he’ll maintain great health.
FOS might even reduce the inflammation associated with canine irritable bowel syndrome (IBS). Though researchers continue to investigate the connection, several studies and research projects do show a link.
Sodium Hexametaphosphate
It may sound frightening, but you’ll find sodium hexametaphosphate added to many human water systems and tooth care products in trace amounts. Although it isn’t safe to ingest in large quantities (be it for human or dog), the amounts your dog will ingest in his food are small and considered by many experts to be wholly safe.
Sodium hexametaphosphate serves only one purpose, but it’s a mission that’s most important – it softens tartar and tooth plaque, letting your dog’s saliva wash it away. Supplementation via your dog’s food could result in a lower need for tooth extractions and cleanings later in life.
Tocopherols
Preservatives tend to get a bad rap whether they’re in pet food or in human food, but they’re necessary for both safety and nutritional value. Think about the last time you accidentally left a coffee cup out overnight or a lunchbox at the gym in your locker; when you came back, you likely discovered first-hand that most organic foods break down when they don’t contain preservatives.
Your dog’s kibble and/or canned food, too, would go through the same process in a matter of days. Without preservatives, it would rot and become laden with molds and bacteria before ever reaching his dish.
Tocopherol just happens to be one of the most suitable preservatives for dog food for a few different reasons. The first (and perhaps most important) reason is that research shows it to be more reliable and safe than other preservatives. The second is that it’s all-natural and sourced from several highly nutritious fruits (including the banana).
Tocopherols don’t just preserve food, they’re comprised of Vitamin E, a necessary vitamin for optimal canine health. Getting enough Vitamin E boosts cardiovascular health, creates a healthier coat, and could even delay aging once your dog reaches seniorhood.
Want to supplement your pup with even more naturally-occurring tocopherol? Slice up a ripe banana and serve it up to him as a treat!
Cholecalciferol
If you noticed that cholecalciferol contains the same suffix (word ending) as tocopherol, you’re very perceptive. You’re also on the right track to discovering exactly what this chemical really is. Both tocopherol and cholecalciferol come from a vitamin that’s necessary for your dog’s survival. When you see cholecalciferol on an ingredient list, it means the food maker is using a Vitamin D3 supplement extracted from animal sources.
Vitamin D3’s role in your dog’s food is solely one of supplementation. Unlike tocopherol, it doesn’t act as a preservative, but your dog requires it to properly digest and process calcium in the stomach. If your dog didn’t ingest Vitamin D3, he or she would end up calcium-deficient, leading to issues with the bones or teeth.
Worse yet, D-vitamin deficiencies may increase your dog’s risk for cancer. One study showed at least a week link between lower levels and common cancers and/or tumors. Cholecalciferol works to reduce this risk.
These five supplements are just the beginning; no matter how healthy the food you choose (even raw), it will still technically contain certain chemicals. What matters most is that you understand what all those complex-sounding words mean and then base your decision on what science says is best for your pup.
Where to Find Dog Food Recall Information
Last but not least is perhaps the most important issue of all: recalls. Nearly every pet company in the world has experienced at least one recall over the life of their company. Many of these are pre-emptive, meaning they don’t have proof of a problem but they do have suspicion. Companies recall pre-emptively to prevent a problem before it occurs.
The best place to find information on current pet food recalls is the FDA’s website at this link. Their database contains lots of information to help you identify problem batches, including the name of the food, the reason for the recall, the brand name, the description, and the company. Click on the brand name to learn more about the recall and how you can contact the company.
What should you do if you discover you gave your dog a recalled food? Check the database for instructions, but call your vet immediately for advice. In most cases, pups will be just fine – you just need to wait and watch. Some vets may want to run tests or give prophylactic treatments.